Rock climbing in Revelstoke has come a long way.
Revelstoske Rocks 2018 is the third official rock climbing guide book to the Revelstoke area I have written. Despite the many hours involved to publish this book, it is also a true privilege to take on this job; a privilege that keeps me actively involved in the Revelstoke climbing community. For me, rock climbing is not just another sport that challenges me in scaling numbers of various difficulties, it is a deep passion which is supported by a rich lifestyle and great friends.
The best part about climbing in Revelstoke is the large number of different crags and the wide variety of climbs. Every crag has its own characteristics, style of climbing, scenery and length of the routes. Today we can hounestly say, Revelstoke has it all: cragging on steep and physical routes at Begbie Bluffs, combining athletic climbing and technical moves at Silvertip Canyon, Blanket Canyon, Hardman Bluffs and Echo Bay or having the ambition for longer multi pitch routes at Waterworld, Jordan River Walls or the incredible Lauretta Slabs. Then there are the 360 to 450 vertical meter high walls of the Victor Lake Wall and the Columbia Buttress where fun rock climbing meets absolute adventure. Looking at all the many different crags and nature of routes, it is impossible to say witch route is the best. Maybe some routes offer more adventure than others but, at the end of the day, it is all about being out there and having the best day ever on steep or not-so-steep rock.
Looking at the various crags and walls in the Revelstoke area, we definitely have some of the best climbing in Canada. Can you see yourself rappelling up to 4 pitches down the steep walls at Waterworld and ending at a 50 cm wide wooden platform that is bolted to the vertical rock and located one meter above the deep blue water of Lake Revelstoke? Then you change your setup from rappelling to climbing and soon after you are completely focused at a great sequence of dynamic moves. As you clip the rope you realize that below you is nothing but extremely deep water. Maybe you go to the Jordan River Walls? As you approach the upper rim of the west facing walls you realize that the level ground rapidly loses its gentle terrain and in front of you is the most impressive drop - a full 800 vertical meters down to the Jordan River. The upper part of this drop is formed by up to 100 meter high walls and the lower part is an extremely steep forest with rock gullies.
If any climbing in Canada ever has given me flashbacks of the Gorge du Verdon in southern France, then the Jordan River Walls with all the impressive routes might be it. Then, if your arms are tired from pulling on steep crimps, go to the Lauretta Slabs and test your balance and edges of your feet as you dance up one of the many technical slab routes. Regardless if you climb an easier route, Via Charlotte or Koby’s Wild Ride, or challenge yourself on one of the hard slab routes such as Phantom of the Opera or Dark Side of the Moon, this area definitely has its charm. This list of great climbing in Revelstoke keeps going on. How many days have I bolted and cleaned routes at the Victor Lake Wall, as I have ground-up established some of the best wall climbing around. Hanging on a belay and observing the climbing partner doing his or her moves, or leading the most scenic pitch ever, it always gave me the great feeling of doing something very special.
During the early years of rock climbing in Revelstoke, climbers who have been on their way to Skaha or Squamish used to stop here, maybe for one or maximum two days, to break up their long drive. During the past several years this has changed. Numerous climbers from all over enjoy Revelstoke as a destination climbing area. They recognize the quality rock climbing this area has to offer, the endless variety of routes and the absolutely beautiful nature we all get to enjoy in this vertical playground.
Of-course, Revelstoke rock climbing would be nothing without the endless enthusiasm and energy of the many climbers who have spent hours and days establishing easier or harder, shorter or longer rock routes. These passioned climbers spend their own money and time to establish great climbs for all of us. Many of them put their vision into reality by establishing their route with rappelling, while a few climbers also like to add some adventure and push their routes from the ground up. At the end of the day, nobody cares how the route was established, ground-up or by rappel. The truth is, every single climber who builds rock routes is a Michelangelo of the vertical. Instead of criticizing their established route, we should appreciate and say “thanks guys”.
Keep on climbing
Ruedi
