Revelstoke Rock Climbing

Begbie Bluffs

Begbie Bluffs is an area, which is formed by 21 individual cliffs varying from 20 to 50 meters in height, spread out in a beautiful forest. Most are pure sport routes, some are gear routes that need a small selection of protection to be placed. When Dean Flick bolted Bifacial Retouch, the first route at Begbie Bluffs in 1991, he said this area is, "...a little small to become a good climbing area". Shortly after, Dean kept bolting more lines such as Suga 5.10d and Spanakopita 5.11c. These two routes gave the green light to an incredible sport climbing area, growing into an endless future. However it was not until Bruce Allen put his heart into the area that it became popular. He has not just established a large number of the routes at Begbie Bluffs, he has also spent countless hours improving and building trails connecting the various cliffs.

The Begbie Bluffs is the classic cragging area, which has seen more development than any other area in Revelstoke. There is something for every climber, regardless if experienced or not, if looking for easy 5.8 routes or looking for the challenge of 5.12 routes. Despite the very popular reputation of climbing on the Raptor Wall and Rabbit Wall, all other cliffs at Begbie Bluffs are just as interesting and fun to climb. The Cool Wall, Creek Wall, Kip's Wall and then there are all the well shaded cliffs at the northwest end such as the North Wall, Crystal Palace, Heaven, Cornerstore, Pharmacy, Aussie Wall and the Tasmania Wall are great crags to explore.

How to get there and Routes

Please refer to the guide book Revelstoke Rocks.

View the crag site map »

Begbie Bluffs: Crags & new routes, Revelstoke rock climbing
1. Prozac *** 12c #7 SPORT 22 m
Established, FFA: Harry van Oort, August 2010
Start at the large overhang, directly left of State of Mind. Climb straight up, following the bolts.
Begbie Bluffs: Crags & new routes, Revelstoke rock climbing Begbie Bluffs: Crags & new routes, Revelstoke rock climbing
2. Cross Town Traffic *** 10a #6 R SPORT 22 m
Established, FFA: Bernie Wiatzka, Cindy Fagan, June 2010
Start in between Forty Something and Aerie In-Cuts. Climb straight up, crossing Aerie In-Cuts and keep climbing straight up, follow several bolts to the belay on a ledge. Carry a longer sling and you can reduce the run-out with clipping a bolt from W5.

3. Space Balls *** 11c F #1 SPORT 25 m
Established, FFA: Established, FFA: Harry van Oort and Mark Hartley, October 2011
Start 5 meters at the far right (east) side of the Raptor Wall, directly left of the large prominent double roof. Climb straight up over a large overhang to the above ledge. /there climb diagonally up to the right, following fixed hangers and chains.

4. Monkey Balls *** 12b/c F SPORT 25 m
Established: Established: Established Harry van Oort and Mark Hartley, October 2011
FFA: Harry van Oort, May 2012
Same start as for Space Balls. Amazing climb, very steep, pumpy and wants to melt your arms at the end.

5. Lucy in the sky is falling *** .12c F #1 SPORT 22 m
Established: 2011
FFA: Mark Hartley, summer 2013
Climb the bolted line through the steep roofs between Monkey Balls and Ill Behavior.

6. Ill Behaviour *** 12c F #1 SPORT 20 m
Established, FFA: Mark Hartley, October 2011
Start directly below the large double roof. Climb a short face to a steep left facing corner, leading into the above steep roofs. Finally leading diagonally up to the right. Good air…
Begbie Bluffs: Raptor Wall far right
7. Marek's dirty little secret * .13a R F #1 SPORT 16 m
Established: Harry van Oort, 2011
FFA: Mark Hartley, summer 2013
Start to the right of a wide and blackish groove, directly below the large roofs. Climb straight up to the anchor, following the bolts.
Begbie Bluffs: Raptor Wall centre cliff