Revelstoke Rock Climbing

Hardman Bluffs

The Hardman Bluffs are located at elevation 1350 meter, approximately 34 km south of Revelstoke on Highway 23S. This area formed by solid gneiss similar to the rock found at the Victor Lake wall. The routes range from 30 meter to 60 meter in height. The Hardman Bluffs have been discovered by Manuela Arnold, Nic Williams, and Ryan Williams in the summer of 2011. The best time to climbe in this area is from June to October.

How to get there

  • From the intersection Hwy 1 West and Hwy 23 South (west of Revelstoke), drive 26.5 km South, to the turn-off Hardman Forest Service Road (3.2km past Blanket Creek Bridge). Follow the Hardman Forest Service Road for 0.8 km, to the first forest road junction.
  • There follow the road to the right and drive for 2.8 km to the next Y junction. There follow the road to the left.
  • Keep driving to 4.1 km, where you have to stay left again.
  • Drive to the next road junction at 5.4 km and once more stay left.
  • Keep driving to the end of the road at 7.0 km. This is where you can park the car.

Please refer to the guide book Revelstoke Rocks.

Hardman Bluffs: Crags & new routes, Revelstoke rock climbing

Walk to the Harman Bluffs

From the parked car walk approximately 100 meters down the road, to a Skidder Road, branching off to the right (South). Follow this Skidder road and the following trail (flagging tape) to the upper rim of the Harman Bluffs. Approximately 15 minutes from the parked car.

A few steps before you reach a perfect vista point with a grand view over the lower valley and the Arrow Lake you come to a gully leading steep down-hill to the left, to below the Hardman Bluffs. From below the steep approach gully keep following the trail and fix ropes in the direction southeast and south to the base of the various climbs.

From North to South, the first wall you come to is the Singles Wall, then the Utopia Wall, followed by the Widowmaker Wall and then the Visions Wall.

Hardman Bluffs: Crags & new routes, Revelstoke rock climbing
Hardman Bluffs: Crags & new routes, Revelstoke rock climbing

Singles Wall

The Singles Wall is the first Wall after you descended the steep gully and started to walk in the direction South.

 1 – Some Like it Hot * 5.10c #10 SPORT 25m
Established FFA: Manuela Arnold, summer 2012 Start on the approach ledge just past (climbers left) of the fixed rope. Climb up a vertical face on positive crimps and rails to a small arête. Keep climbing up this arête, past a Fir tree and through several roofs to the top anchor. Rappel the route or walk off.

 2 – Goat’s Hair ** 5.11c #11 SPORT 28m
Established: Ryan Williams, August 2011
FFA: Nic Williams, September 2013
Start on the ledge about 5 meters left of Some Like it Hot and climb up a short vertical face and onto a ledge. Make a difficult undercling move and continue up the above black corner. Keep following the bolts up through a final difficult crimpy section followed by larger incut holds to the top anchor. Rappel or walk off.

 27 – Project 5.11c #11 SPORT 28m
Established: Ryan Williams, summer 2015
FFA: project
Start 5 meters climbers left of Goat’s Hair. Aim up left to a technical steep corner. After this corner continue on to the above easier slabs and the anchor.

Hardman Bluffs: Crags & new routes, Revelstoke rock climbing

Utopia Wall Right

The Utopia Wall Right is the next wall as you keep walking in southerly direction. It is reached by continuing past Some like it Hot and Goat's Hair (Singles Wall) until a small step down is reached and the ledge opens up to a wide, sloping area of bare rock.

The first route, Spirit In The Sky starts just before the step down. Utopia Wall splits logically into left and right sections as the large sloping ledge at its base narrows and becomes impassable halfway across the wall just past the base of Blast From The Past.

 3 – Spirit in the Sky ** 5.10b /?? #10 SPORT 2p
Established: Ryan Williams, June 2011
FFA: Pitch 1 FFA: Simon McPhedran, July 2011, Pitch 2: Project
Start at the far left side of the approach ledge, just before a small step down.
Pitch 1: Climb on easy terrain up a dark rock to a steeper white face. At the top of this face, step right through the notch, then move left into the obvious hand crack and move on to the first belay, 30 m.
Pitch 2: (project) Follow the bolted line through the overhangs to the next belay, ??m.

 4 – Thor or Sore *** 5.11b #10 SPORT 30m
Established: Ryan Williams, June 2011
FFA: Dean Flick, July 2011
Start to the left of Spirit In the Sky and climb through progressively harder terrain to the roof. Trend right through the roof and reach over the lip to a crack system. Follow this crack system to the anchor, ?? m. (Same anchor as for Spirit in the Sky)

 5 – Lord of the Flies ** 5.11d #8 SPORT 25m
Established / FFA: Ryan Williams, August 26, 2012 Start at the large ledge. Climb to a crimpy and technical crux sequence on the vertical headwall, followed by easier moves near the anchor. (Same anchor as for Stranded)

 6 – Stranded *** 5.10c / 5.12b #8 SPORT 2p
Established: Nic Williams, June 2011
Pitch 1 FFA: Nic Williams, June 2011
Pitch 2 FFA: Nic Williams, August 26, 2012
Pitch 1: From the large ledge climb through small roofs to the above slabs (5.10c). Keep moving on to the first belay, 25 m.
Pitch 2: Climbs through two large roofs, the first of which is the crux (5.12b).
From the top of the climb walk off.

 7 – Two Faced *** 5.11d #8 SPORT 30m
Established / FFA: Nic Williams, 2012 / September 2013 Start to the left (South) of Stranded and move up through easy low angle terrain. As the rock steepens, the climbing becomes increasingly difficult. Climb a dynamic crux sequence through a small corner.

 8 – Project
Established: Ryan Williams, August 2012 Climb up an easy ramp to several long moves. Move up through a series of small roofs to a tricky final mantle.

 9 – Blast From the Past **** 5.11d / project #11 SPORT 2p
Established: Dean Flick, June 2011
FFA (pitch 1): Nic Williams, June 2011 (pitch 2 still project)
Pitch 1: Scramble to the most left side of the ledge and belay at a single bolt. Climb on easier terrain through the first couple bolts to steeper and more difficult climbing above. Pull a roof half way up the route and exit into a small corner (5.11d). Belay above on a ledge, 30 m.
Pitch 2: (project) Climb through the large overhangs (5.12+) to the upper belay, 20 meters

Hardman Bluffs: Crags & new routes, Revelstoke rock climbing

Utopia Wall Left

To access the Utopia Wall Left, walk back towards the descent gully (northerly direction) and follow a trail down off the main ledge, just before the step up to the approach ledge. The trail switches and leads in southerly direction and eventually down a steep section with a fixed rope. Don't descend this line - instead continue across and make an awkward step down by a fir tree to a narrow ledge. Squeeze across and continue up the widening ramp to the base of Just Jump.

Hardman Bluffs: Crags & new routes, Revelstoke rock climbing
 10 – Just Jump *** 5.11d / 5.12b #10 SPORT 2p
Established / FFA: Nic Williams, pitch 1 summer 2011, pitch 2 October 24 2015
Just Jump starts at the right most line of bolts after crossing the narrow ledge.
Pitch 1: Climb up the short vertical and crimpy wall to an easy slab. Continue up the slightly overhanging wall above to a pair of small and sloping crimps, followed by a large jug at the above lip. Some more powerful climbing leads up to the first belay, 30 meters.
Pitch 2: Climb through a small triangular roof directly above the belay and continues straight up to the second anchor, 20 meters.
Rappel the route.

 11 – Feverish ** 5.10a / project #9 SPORT 2p
Established / FFA:
Ryan Williams, July 2011
(pitch 2 still project)
Start at the lower ledge.
Pitch 1: Climb an easy slab and continue on through a vertical wall with large jugs to the first belay, 26 meters.
Pitch 2: (project) Climb straight up to a hard crux near the top. Anchor at the upper rim of the wall, 20 meters.
Rappel the route.

 12 – Utopia *** 5.10b / 5.11b #7 SPORT 2p
Established / FFA: Ryan & Nic Williams, August 2012
FFA: Nic Williams and Manuela Arnold, pitch 1 August 2012, pitch 2 fall 2015
Start half way across the lower ledge.
Pitch 1: Climb up through a tricky vertical wall to the above slabs. After these slabs, aim left onto an overhanging section of the wall (5.10a). Belay, 20 meters.
Pitch 2: Climb through a roof, directly above the belay, then continue straight up on good holds to an exciting and steep finish. The anchor is 5 meters past the rim of the wall, 28 meters.
Rappel the route or walk off.

 13 – The Left Side of Paradise *** 5.10b / 5.11c #13 SPORT 2p
Established / FFA: Nic Williams, August 2012
FFA: Nic Williams and Manuela Arnold, August 2012
Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of Utopi. Climb up through a tricky vertical wall to the above slabs. After these slabs, aim left onto an overhanging section of the wall (5.10a). Belay, 20 meters.
Pitch 2: Climb through a small roof, after branch off to the left (Utopia follows the bolts straight up). Traverse left for several meters. Then climb straight up to the anchor, 30 meters.
Rappel or walk off.

 14 – Dream On ** (do not climb, Project) 5.12+ #7 SPORT 20m
Established: Ryan Williams, August 2012
FFA: Project
Start near the south end of the ledge.
Climb an easy slab to the above vertical wall. Work your self straight up this steep wall to the anchor

 15 – Purgatory
(do not climb, Project)
Established :  
FFA: Project FFA: Project
Start at the far south end of the ledge.
Climb ...

Widowmaker Wall

Coming from Utopia Wall / Singles Wall, get onto the main trail, just to the right (North) of the Utopia Wall. Follow this trail and descent along the fix rope. Keep walking along the main trail in the direction South, past the second switch-back, to near a small cave. The route Widowmaker is directly above you.

 16 – Arrow Arête * 5.10b #8 SPORT 30m
Established / FFA: Manuela Arnold, September 2011
Start on the right-hand side of the prominent arête. Climb up a low angle ramp to a shallow corner above. Keep climbing straight up, past a small roof to the anchor.

 17 – Sweet Dreams ** 5.10d / 11d #10 SPORT 2p
Established / FFA: Manuela Arnold, 2011 / September 2013
Pitch 1: Starts at the base of the prominent arête. Climb the right-hand face of the arête. First belay on a large ledge, 28 meters.
Pitch 2: Climb onto the left face of the arête. Now follow a thin crack leading through a large bulge. Keep climbing straight up to the second belay, 20 meters.
Rappel the route or walk off.

 18 – Highlead
(do not climb, Project)
Established : Nic Williams, September 2011
 

 19 – Widow Maker *** 5.12b / 5.11c #14 SPORT 2p
Established: Ryan Williams, August 2011
FFA: (pitch 1) Manuela Arnold, (pitch 2) Ryan and Nic Williams, Aug 2011
Pitch 1: Start at the left-hand side of the prominent arête. Climb up the technical face to the base of a large roof. Climb through this roof to the above slab. Belay beside the small arête, 35 meters.
Pitch 2: Climb the crimpy white face to the second belay, 20 meters.
Rappel the route or walk off.

 20 – Skyline
(do not climb, Project)
Established : Ryan Williams, September 2013
 

Hardman Bluffs: Crags & new routes, Revelstoke rock climbing

Visions Wall

The easiest to access this wall is if you don’t descent the steep approach gully, from the upper rim to the base of the Hardman Bluffs.

Instead, from the top of the access gully walk along the exposed upper rim of the Hardman Bluffs towards south. Eventually the trail is crossing a notable gully. Shortly after this gully the trail is descending to the upper and southerly rim of the Visions Wall. Keep descending fix ropes and numerous switch-backs to below the Visions Wall.

 21 – Dosed * 5.10d #14 SPORT 35 m
Established : Ryan Williams, September 25, 2012
Climb up an easy slab to several small roofs above. Pull through these roofs and climb the above large corner.

 22 – Flying High **** 5.12b / 5.12b #12 SPORT 2p
Established : Ryan Williams October 2013
Pitch 1 FFA: Ryan Williams, May 2015
Pitch 2: Ryan Williams, October 24 2015
Start approximately 3 meters to the right of Lucid Dreaming, at the base of a small roof.
Pitch 1: Pull through the roof at the base and climb the above smooth slab to easier climbing. Keep moving straight up to the above roof, pull this roof and go to the first belay, 20 m.
Pitch 2: Climb straight up into the above white scoop and further to the top anchor, 32 m.
Rappel the route.

 23 – Lucid Dreaming **** 5.11b / 5.12c #11 SPORT 2p
Established: Nic Williams October 2013
FFA: Nic Williams and Manuela Arnold, Oct 2013
Pitch 1: Climb up a well featured face to a sloping mantel above. Further follow a small ramp diagonally up to the right, eventually trend back to the left. Now keep climbing straight up, past a roof to the first belay, 25 m.
Pitch 2: Climb up and start aiming towards the right, through a small right facing corner with an overhang. After, climb straight up to the top anchor, 30 m.
Rappel the route or walk off.

 24 – Visions in the Mist **** 5.11c / 5.11c #12 SPORT 2p
Established / FFA: Ryan Williams and Manuela Arnold, Oct 2011 Pitch 1: Climb the slab featured face to the above small roof. After this roof climb on thin crimps to the belay, 27 m.
Pitch 2: From the belay climb on small crimps straight up, to the second belay, 25 m.
Rappel the route or walk off.

 25 – Wishbone **** 5.10b / 5.11c #8 SPORT 2p
Established / FFA: Manuela Arnold, fall 2013 Start at the left-hand side of the wall, just to the right of a prominent corner.
Pitch 1: Climb the right facing corner for the first four bolts, then aim to the right and climb the steep face to the first belay, 25 m.
Pitch 2: climb on much harder rock straight up to the second belay, 25 m.
Rappel the route or walk off.

 26 – Quarter Century Boy ** 5.9 / 5.11b #8 SPORT 2p
Established / FFA: Ryan Williams, September 2012
FFA: Ryan Williams and Manuela Arnold, Oct 2012
Start at the climber’s left-hand side of the Visions Wall.
Pitch 1: Climb an easy face to the above large ledge with the first belay, 20 meters.
Pitch 2: Climb a small roof to the above vertical wall. Keep moving straight up to the top anchor, 25 meters.
Rappel the route or walk off.

Hardman Bluffs: Crags & new routes, Revelstoke rock climbing