New Routes – Begbie Bluffs


For all routes not shown on this page, refer to the guide book “Revelstoke Rocks”.

Begbie Bluffs

RT  Raptor Wall   ***

5.13b  # 10 + fixed draws  SPORT  28 m
Established/FFA: Shep Howatt, summer 2019

Route: Start at the right-hand grove (black rock above) and climb its left-hand wall, on less solid rock, to the large roof above. Keep climbing straight up, through two sustained cruxes. Eventually link into Zoloft and keep climbing straight up to the anchor.

Apollo 11 route

216 Cross Town Traffic

This route now has a 5 bolt extension above the first belay, leading diagonally up to the right. With this I think the route should be divided into two routes; Cross Town Traffic 2 pitches 5.10a, left line from below the roof and Cross Town Traffic Right 35m 5.10d, climber’s right-hand line from below the roof

216   Cross Town Traffic   **

5.10a  # 8 + SS 1  SPORT  2 p
Established / FFA: Bernie Wiatzka and Cindy Fagan, June 2010 / October 13, 2017.

Route:
Pitch 1 (5.10a 25m): Start 5 metres left of the climber’s leftmost edge of the prominent arching overhang. Left of the large Fir tree. Aim slightly right and climb a short but steep wall directly left of an arête. After aim diagonally up to the climber’s right to a prominent roof. There, climb the climber’s left-hand bolt line to the belay.

Pitch 2 (5.9 20m): From the belay aim to the climber’s left and after, climb straight up a steep buttress to the top anchor.

Descent:
A) Scramble a few easy steps up the final sloping slabs to the top of the Raptor Wall. From there walk level towards west, to a large forested gully. There, descend to the base of the Raptor Wall.

B) Rappel 2 pitches (20m / 25m)

CTR   Cross Town Traffic Right   ***

5.10d  # 12 + SS 3  SPORT  35m
Established / FFA: Below the mid station Bernie Wiatzka and Cindy Fagan, June 2010. Above the mid station Greg Golovach, July 15, 2019

Route:
Start 5 metres left of the climber’s leftmost edge of the prominent arching overhang. Left of the large Fir tree. Aim slightly right and climb a short but steep wall directly left of an arête. After aim diagonally up to the climber’s right to a prominent roof. There, climb the climber’s right-hand bolt line to the above mid station. Skip this mid station and keep climbing, aiming slightly to the climber’s right. Follow another 5 bolts to the top anchor.

Descent:
A) Rappel or lower 35 metres to the ground. It is important to use a “full” 70 metre rope (or longer). For your safety, make sure you tie knots to the ends of the rope, for rappelling or for lowering.

Cross Town Traffic