Crags and New Routes: Big Eddy Walls – Revelstoke rock climbing

Big Eddy Walls

Approach: 2 minutes from Westside Road parking area.
Sun exposure: morning to mid-day.
Routes: 8
Difficulty range: 5.8 to 5.11b
Height of routes: 1 to 2 pitches
Nature of climbs: SPORT
This area is ideal to climb during rainy days, or right after rain events. It is hard to believe, but these cliffs do stay dry. Even during warmer winter days, rock climbing on these routes is fantastic.
Rope: single 70 metre.

The Big Eddy Walls are much better than they look from distance!

The Big Eddy Walls are the newest addition (2019) to the large variety of Revelstoke rock climbing. This area is located at the Westside Road, approximately 1 kilometre past the intersection (traffic light) of Hwy 1 West, Hwy 23 South and the Westside Road.

People have climbed in earlier years on the cliffs directly north and closer to the road. Although these routes have been poorly established and therefor the area never gained any attraction.

It was not until Cam Molder started to develop high quality rock routes in this area, built trails and turned this grubby looking cliff into favourable rock crags with numerous 3 Star routes. But it is not just the actual rock climbing. Spending time on these crags gives you the complete package of climbing steep routes and experiencing one of the best views across the famous “Big Eddy” on the Columbia River, to the large Columbia River bridge and part of the town of Revelstoke. It is also a quick “go to” crag from Revelstoke.

Drive from Revelstoke to the Big Eddy Walls

From the intersection Hwy 1 West, Hwy 23 South and Westside road; turn onto the Westside Road and drive past the large trucker’s parking area. From the intersection (traffic lights) follow the Westside road for 1.2 km. This brings you to a small parking area at the right-hand side (east) of the road. This is also the same parking are for the Big Eddy Boulders.

From this parking area, cross the road and take a narrow trail leading to the Right and Left Big Eddy Crag. For the Right Big Eddy Crag, stay on the main trail, at the narrow junction leading level to the right. Start at the first left facing corner system. For the Left Big Eddy Crag turn left at the narrow junction. Follow this trail slightly up and level towards south. Eventually you come to the exposed crag. Caution, very exposed, clip into the safety bolts.

Left Big Eddy Wall – Dump Run

DR Dump Run ***

5.10b # 12 SPORT 29m
Established and FFA, Cam Molder, Brian Dafoe, May 2018

Route:
From the belay at the very end (south) of the exposed, sloping ledge climb the left-hand buttress. Climb a few steps diagonally to the left. Then climb straight up, following a crack system and some steep wall climbing.

Left Big Eddy Wall – Solar Flare

SF Solar Flare ***

5.10b # 14 SPORT 27m
Established and FFA, Cam Molder, Dennis Genton, February 2017

Route:
From the belay at the very end (south) of the exposed, sloping ledge climb the right-hand route. Climb past roofs and the above small corner to the above steep wall.

Left Big Eddy Wall – Big Eddy

BE Big Eddy **

5.11a # 8 SPORT 18m
Established and FFA, Cam Molder, Brian Dafoe, May 2018

Route:
Start at the middle of the exposed, sloping ledge, directly below a prominent corner. Climb this corner and the above steep wall.

Right Big Eddy Wall – Par Four

EG Eagle **

5.10a # 12 SPORT 2p
Established and FFA, Cam Molder, Eric Dafoe, Brian Dafoe, June 2018

Route:
Pitch 1 (5.7 25m): This is also the approach pitch for all other routes on the Right Big Eddy Wall. From the end of the approach trail (Fir tree), climb a short corner to the above steep wall. Eventually aim left, to the belay in a deep corner and on a wide ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.10a 25m): From the belay aim diagonally up to the left. Eventually climb a deep corner. At the upper end of this corner exit to the left and after climb straight up to the belay.

Descent: Rappel the route (25m / 25m)

Right Big Eddy Wall – Eagle

PF Par Four ***

5.11b # # 2 + fixed draws SPORT 27m
Established and FFA, Cam Molder, Brian Dafoe, June 2018

Route:
Climb the approach pitch to the large ledge, located in a deep corner (pitch 1 of Eagle, 5.7 25 m). From this belay climb into the prominent, steep corner. Climb the steep and fun features to the anchor.

Descent: To lower, it is best to back-clip the top 3 fix draws. This will keep you closer to the wall.

Right Big Eddy Wall – Wilson

WS Wilson ***

5.11b # 2 + fixed draws SPORT 27m
Established and FFA, Cam Molder, Eric Dafoe, May 2019

Route: Climb the approach pitch to the large ledge, located in a deep corner (pitch 1 of Eagle, 5.7 25 m). From this belay climb the steep right-hand wall, past two roofs. After the second roof aim diagonally up to the climber’s left, to the anchor.

Descent: To lower, it is best to back-clip the top 3 fix draws of Par Four. This will keep you closer to the wall.

Right Big Eddy Wall – Powder Day

PD Powder Day ***

5.10c # 14 SPORT 30m
Established and FFA, Cam Molder, Brian Dafoe, January 2018

Route: Climb the approach pitch to the large ledge, located in a deep corner (pitch 1 of Eagle, 5.7 25 m). From this belay climb tricky diagonally up to the right, onto a steep arête. From there climb straight up and slightly to the climber’s right. This leads you up fun corners and roofs. Eventually aim diagonally up to the climber’s left, to the belay.