New Routes – Echo Bay

New routes, Echo Bay

For all routes not shown on this page, refer to the guide book “Revelstoke Rocks”.

Owl Wall

LC  Loving Cup   ****

5.10d  # 13  SPORT  2p
Established, FFA: Douglas Sproul, May 2018
Location: Left Owl Wall

Route: Start at the lowest point on the Owl Wall, at a right-hand side of a buttress.
Pitch 1 (5.10c 24m): A less difficult start leads to a ledge. From there, climb a first overhang into the first difficult section. This leads to the above corner and arête. Belay in an alcove.
Pitch 2 (5.10d 16m): From the belay climb a short overhang to the above fun and steep face climbing. This pitch increases in difficulty as you get higher, hard and somewhat committing for its grade.

Descent: Rappel the route, 2 pitches (16m / 24m)

Owl Wall

FF  Fight The Fire   ***

5.11c  # 14  SPORT  2p
Established, FFA: Douglas Sproul, October 2018
Location: Left Owl Wall

Comment: This route is often climbed in one single pitch. At that point bring 20 draws and 2 shoulder size slings) plus extras for the anchor. Rappel in two pitches.

Route: Start at the lowest point on the Owl Wall, at a corner.
Pitch 1 (5.11c 25m): A few metres of less strenuous climbing lead towards the prominent block / corner of Loving Cup. After pulling over the block, traverse slightly right and then up and into the prominent corner system, to the climber’s right of Loving Cup. Climb this fun corner system up roofs, to the first belay.
Pitch 2 (5.11c 15m): Climb up and to the left of a roof / overhang. This is where Fight The Fire joins for a few moves with Loving Cup. It is possible to climb this pitch at a more aesthetic, direct variation, without traversing left at the overhang. Making this section harder than 5.11, the bolting works for both variations. After the roof / overhang, the climbing varies between sidepulls, underclings and pockets; as you aim slightly to the climber’s right and up.

Descent: Rappel the route, 2 pitches (15m / 25m)

Owl Wall

FF  Feed The Flame   ****

5.12a  # 21 + 3 SS  SPORT  35m
Established, FFA: Douglas Sproul, June 2019
Location: Left Owl Wall

Comment: The second and tenth bolt might give you rope drag, shoulder size slings (SS) are recommended.

Route: Climb a steep broken slab to its above small corner. Continue on, climbing the following steep broken slab to a roof. There, aim to the climber’s left, into a corner that leads to the left side of a block. The first bolt her is to protect the traverse. After you clipped the next bolt, unclip the first bolt. This will save you from excessive rope drag.
Now climb on less strenuous rock to the steep headwall. This is where the serious climbing starts. A couple of crucial knee-bars will make the upcoming section somewhat easier. This is where a rappel anchor is. Use it for your descent, if your rope is not a “full 70 metres” long. As Douglas describes this route: “after the crux, the climb continues on superb rock with mind-bending movements, an awesome finish”.
FTF a: This is a more direct line to Feed The Flame. However, this direct variation is often wet, therefor it is less popular than the climber’s left-hand route of Feed The Flame. This direct variation is an open project.

Descent: Rappel full 35 metres to the ground, or rappel two pitches (5m / 30m).

Owl Wall

EAT  Everything All The Time  ***

5.12b  # 17  SPORT  30m
Established, FFA: Douglas Sproul, July 2019
Location: Left Owl Wall
Route: Start just to the right of a short right facing corner with a corner-crack, left of Stoke Roasted. After a few moves, climbing an obvious arête to a ledge. From this ledge the interesting climbing starts, as you move into the first overhang. After this overhang trend to the climber’s right, towards a crack. After a couple of moves in the crack, trend to the left. The next few bolts are the crux.

Descent: Rappel the route to the ground, 30 metres.

Echo Bay – By the Trees

RJH  In Russia, Jug Hold You!   ***

5.11c  # 13  SPORT  24 m
Established, FFA: James Eger, summer 2019

Route: Start 3 metres to the climber’s right of Thunder perfect Mind. Super fun acrobatic climbing through the crux and a unique no-hands rest. The name makes sense after you have climbed this route.

Echo Bay – Eagle Wall

EC  Eclipse   ***

5.10d  # 11  SPORT  25 m
Mike Bromberg, Adam Zok, Darek Glowacki, spring 2019

Route: Start at bas of the prominent wide crack, located at the south side of the small bay. Climb a few metres up the wide crack system. After the first bolt climb straight up the steep wall, to the belay.

Echo Bay – By The Trees Wall

OR  Odin’s Rumpet  ***

5.10c R  # 9  SPORT  20 m
Established, FFA: James Eger, May 2018

Located: By The Trees Wall

Approach: Walk along the base of the By The Trees Wall to its upper end. This route is approximately 10 meters up-slope from the prominent crack system of Villa Villekulla .

Route: Climb a shallow corner to the right-hand side of a roof. From there keep climbing straight up to a second roof. A final few meters with fun moves lead to the top anchor.

Echo Bay – By The Trees wall

Joy  Joy  ***

5.12c  # 13  SPORT  30 m
Established: James Eger, fall of 2017
FFA: James Eger, June 2, 2018
In the Revelstoke Rocks guidebook, Joy is route/project 448

Located: By The Trees Wall

Approach: Walk along the base of the By The Trees Wall up the forested slope. This route is approximately 10 meters up-slope from the prominent crack system of Stone Age.

Route: Climb a wide base-pedestal, on it’s right-hand side, to the above ledge. From there pull a roof and after follow the steep bolt-line to the top anchor. This route has two cruxes, one directly past the lower roof and the second 3 to 4 bolts down from the top. Sustained technical climbing with great moves.

Echo Bay – By The Trees wall

SNSF  Sunday Night Slap Fight  ***

5.11c  # 13  SPORT  30 m
Established: James Eger, summer 2018
FFA: James Eger, summer 2018

Located: By The Trees Wall

Approach: Walk along the base of the By The Trees Wall up the forested slope. This route starts approximately 7 meters up-slope from the prominent crack system of Stone Age.

Route: Start in between Joy and The Enlightenment. At the beginning aim slightly climber’s right and after move straight up to a small corner-roof. Now climb straight up, past a shallow left facing corner and the upper technical wall, to the top anchor.

Echo Bay – Owl Wall Right

GM  Green Man  ***

5.9+   # 12  SPORT  22 m
Established: James Eger, summer 2018
FFA: James Eger, summer 2018

Located: Right Owl Wall

Approach: Walk along the main trail past the benches of the Field of Dreams wall, to the prominent boulder field and the beach of Echo Bay. There catch a trail, leading diagonally up the boulder field. This trail will bring you to the base of the Owl Wall. Now walk 15 meters up-hill, along the base of the Right Owl Wall, to a prominent left facing corner.

Route: Start left of the prominent left facing corner system. Climb the bolt-line that leads up the left corner wall. Shortly below the top anchor, the wall steepens and a cruxy move leads to the anchor. Ignore the “in-between” belay at 18 meters, to the left. Keep climbing straight up the left wall of the corner.

Echo Bay – Owl Wall

VT  Vinotok  ***

5.10d   # 19  SPORT  35 m
Established: James Eger, summer 2018
FFA: James Eger, summer 2018

Located: Right Owl Wall

Approach: Walk along the main trail past the benches of the Field of Dreams wall, to the prominent boulder field and the beach of Echo Bay. There catch a trail, leading diagonally up the boulder field. This trail will bring you to the base of the Owl Wall. Now walk 15 meters up-hill, along the base of the Right Owl Wall, to a prominent left facing corner.

Route: Start left of the prominent left facing corner system, second bolt-line left of the large corner. Climb the bolt-line onto a steep arête, followed by an exposed traverse to the left. Eventually climb straight up. A steep and pumpy finish will bring you to the top anchor. Good route finding skills and reading of the rock will make the climb easier. At 18 meters, Vinotok has an “in-between” belay. Ignore this belay for the climb. However, if you use a rope shorter than 70 meters, you will need this anchor for rappelling.

Echo Bay – Owl Wall

SR  Stoke Roasted  ****

5.12c  # 13  SPORT  27m
Established: Douglas Sproul, summer 2018
FFA: Douglas Sproul, summer 2018

Located: Right Owl Wall

Approach: Walk along the main trail past the benches of the Field of Dreams wall, to the prominent boulder field and the beach of Echo Bay. There catch a trail, leading diagonally up the boulder field. This trail will bring you to the base of the Owl Wall.

Route: Start directly below the prominent base roofs. Climb straight up a series of roofs to fun wall climbing above. Keep moving straight up, past several smaller roofs and at the climber’s left side of the prominent and steep arête. The final roof is where the “sting-in-the-tail” waits for you. Climb this roof and the above final wall with some elegant technical moves.